Handloom: A Testament to Craftsmanship and Tradition
Before the handloom weaving process of fabric can actually start, the yarns for setting up the loom are prepared. This preparatory phase, known as the pre-loom phase, begins with selecting the yarn and determining the quantity. It involves yarn dyeing, washing, winding yarn, warping/drumming, and continues all the way to drafting and denting. The pre-loom phase is both time-consuming and labor-intensive, taking 1-2 weeks for the fabric yarns to be fully prepared.
At Anuprerna, we stand firmly behind the time-honored tradition of handloom fabric production. From the initial selection of yarns to the intricate preparatory phase, we meticulously uphold the craftsmanship that defines this ancient art form. Our commitment to quality and sustainability shines through in every step of the process, ensuring that each handloom fabric carries with it a legacy of excellence and heritage.
What is Handlooms?
Handlooms are manually operated weaving devices that use no electricity. An artisan controls every motion, which gives the fabric natural texture, slight irregularities, and stronger character. Handloom textiles are slower to make, more sustainable, and often valued for craftsmanship rather than mass production.
YARN CALCULATION
Begin by calculating the yarn needed for each color based on your textile's planned dimensions. Width, length, and pick count (PPI or PPC) are crucial. Consider factors like yarn thickness, loom waste, and fringe allowances. These calculations ensure you have the right yarn quantity for your creative textile designs.
YARN DYEING
Then the required quantity of yarn is sent for dyeing in the desired colours (which have been tested and approved). The dyed yarn is given a wash to remove excess dye. The dyed yarns are then dried after which it is ready for the next step.
WINDING
In the process of winding, the dyed yarns are transferred onto bobbins from various sources such as ring bobbins, hanks, and cones. This is done using a device called a charkha. The purpose of winding is to create a single yarn package suitable for the next production stage.
Additionally, winding is used to transfer the weft yarn onto bobbins or pins, which are then placed into shuttles for further use.
WARPING
Warping is a method used to get the weaver's beam ready for installation on the weaving machine or loom. The threads from the bobbins on the creel frame are wound onto a large drum in a specific order, based on the desired length and width of the warp.
The warp threads are then transferred as a whole onto a weaver's beam by unwinding them from the drum.
DRAFTING
In the process of drafting, the next stage involves pulling each individual strand of the warp yarn through the heald eyes on the heald wire. Drafting refers to the act of choosing the appropriate heald frames or harnesses for each individual warp thread, based on the desired design.
DRAFTING PROCESS
DENTING
The next step involves denting, where the warp thread is pulled through the reed dent according to the reed plan. This ensures the fabric's width and the number of ends per inch or centimeter are determined accurately.
Once the denting is done, the warp ends are securely attached to the cloth beam, allowing the weaving process to commence.
related questions
What is the main tool for weaving?
arrow_drop_downThe main tool for weaving is a loom. A loom is a device used to interlace threads or yarns to create fabric. It provides the framework for holding the warp threads under tension and facilitates the interlacing with the weft threads to form woven fabric. Looms can vary in complexity and design, ranging from simple handlooms to large industrial power looms.
How is weaving done manually?
arrow_drop_downIn manual weaving, a weaver uses a loom to interlace two sets of threads: the warp and the weft. The process involves passing the weft thread over and under the warp threads to create a woven fabric. The weaver lifts and lowers selected warp threads to create an opening called the shed, through which the weft thread is inserted. This process is repeated, and as the fabric grows, it is periodically beaten down to ensure a tight weave. The complexity of patterns and designs depends on the skill of the weaver and the type of loom used.
What are the two basic components used in weaving?
arrow_drop_downThe two basic components used in weaving are the warp (longitudinal threads) and the weft (transverse threads).
How many weaving techniques are there?
arrow_drop_downThere are numerous weaving techniques, but some primary ones include plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, dobby weave, Jacquard weave, double cloth, leno weave, and huckaback weave.
What is the structure of a loom?
arrow_drop_downThe basic structure of a loom includes a frame, a system for holding and tensioning warp threads (called the warp beam), heddles to control the warp threads' movement, a shuttle for passing the weft through the shed, and a reed to beat down the weft and maintain an even weave.
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