IKAT - A DISTINCTIVE STYLE

resist dyed

Published on 22nd Jan, 2024

Last Edited on 12th Aug, 2025

Reading Time: 2 Minute Read

Ikkat, also known as Ikat, is a traditional weaving technique where the threads are dyed before being woven into fabric. This method creates unique and intricate patterns on the fabric as the dyeing process is done before the threads are aligned on the loom. The word "Ikkat" is derived from the Malay-Indonesian word "mengikat," which means to tie or bind.

Ikat's Cradle: Unearthing the Textile's Ancient Past

Ikat has Indonesian and Malay origins, bit has been shown in history from pre-Columbian Peru, India, Egypt and Guatemala, 10th century Yemen, Japan, Uzbekistan and a few others.

The longest history of ikat prints is 5000 years with the oldest historical piece of ikat art being in the Indian Odishan style which was found in Pharaoh’s tomb, which historically was decorated eccentrically to honor their kings with only the best and more ceremonial designs.

The Dutch East India Company first introduced ikat to the European markets after they explored Southeast Asia, discovering and learning the traditions and shared into the modern society of the time.

By integrating Ikat into the modern society, it allowed it to grow and flourish into featured fashion and interior decor in the 21st Century.

Decoding The Types Of Ikat

Warp Ikat: Only the warp yarns are dyed using the ikat technique. The weft yarns are usually a solid color. This is the most common type of ikat.

Weft Ikat: Only the weft yarns are dyed using the ikat technique. The warp yarns are usually a solid color. This is more challenging to execute than warp ikat.

Double Ikat: Both the warp and weft yarns are resist-dyed before weaving. This is the most complex and labor-intensive form of ikat, requiring exceptional precision to align the patterns of both sets of yarns. Patola from Gujarat, India, is a famous example of double ikat.

The Magic of Ikat: A Step-by-Step Guide

Designing and Tarn Selection:

The process begins with the design of the desired pattern. This design is then translated onto graph paper to create a template for tying the threads.

High-quality yarn is selected for the weaving process. Commonly used materials include cotton, silk, or a combination of both.

Process involving Yarn preparation

The selected yarn is wound onto a frame or a warping board to create the warp

Yarn Preparation:

The warp or weft yarns (or both for double ikat) are stretched on a frame or warping board. This ensures they are held taut and in the correct order for tying. Bundles of warp (vertical) or weft (horizontal) yarns, or both, are tightly bound with resist material (traditionally cotton threads, but sometimes wax or other materials are used).

Tying the Resist:

This is the most crucial and time-consuming step. The yarns are tightly bound with resist material, traditionally cotton threads or raffia palm fibers. The precision of these ties determines the clarity and sharpness of the pattern. For complex, multi-colored designs, this tying process is repeated multiple times before each dyeing stage.

Process involving Dyeing

Dyeing:

The yarn bundles are then dyed. For multi-colored ikats, the tying and dyeing process is repeated multiple times, with new sections of the yarn being bound before each subsequent dyeing. This is a very precise and labor-intensive process.

Removing the Ties:

Once the dyeing is complete and the yarns are dry, the resist bindings are carefully removed, revealing the dyed pattern on the yarns.

Process involving Weaving

Once the dyeing is complete, the yarns are ready for weaving

Weaving:

Once the dyeing is complete, the bindings are removed, and the yarns are ready for weaving. The dyed patterns on the yarns create the design in the finished fabric. Because the pattern is on the yarns themselves, the design appears on both sides of the cloth

Go behind the scenes: Explore our ikat cluster page.